Winterproof tiny house

You can live comfortably in a tiny house all year round, even in the depths of winter. Drawing from three winters of experience, I summarize the requirements for heating and insulation, structures, ventilation concepts, and water installation. Self-sufficiency is difficult to achieve.

Heating

In principle, all systems commonly used in tiny houses are suitable if they are sufficiently dimensioned. Due to their high efficiency, air-to-air heat pumps (mini-split air conditioning) are my favorite. But infrared panels/underfloor heating, gas heaters or wood/pellet stoves are also capable enough. It is always advisable to calculate the heat requirement and the running costs.

Those sensitive to cold feet must install underfloor heating or live with slippers.

Insulation

Due to weight and size restrictions, mobile tiny houses rarely meet the thermal insulation requirements stipulated by building regulations in Germany. However, due to the small living space, the total energy requirement is often manageable and can also be justified from an ecological point of view.

It is important to calculate all the options given the existing restrictions (e.g. weight, width, choice of materials, costs) and then make a well-informed decision on the best compromise. The aim is always to meet conventional building standards.

Ventilation concept

Many tiny houses face problems with mold growth in the interior and walls during the cold season. When used as a residential building, more moisture is released than can be dissipated by frequent window ventilation. A winter-proof tiny house absolutely needs an exhaust fan above the stove and shower, as well as permanent ventilation. Depending on use, this can be implemented with or without heat recovery.

In terms of efficiency, ventilation systems with heat exchangers should be used in new buildings.

Wall construction

Cold spots are not only unpleasant, but also pose a risk of mold in winter. Thermal bridges often occur when materials with high thermal conductivity penetrate the wall completely. Care must therefore be taken during construction to thermally decouple metal parts in particular.

A diffusion-open construction method can reduce the risk of moisture damage in the insulation layer. However, it only removes very little moisture overall and cannot replace permanent ventilation in the interior.

More information on wall structures can be found here.

Windows and doors

For weight reasons, double-glazed windows are often installed in tiny houses on wheels. For stationary tiny houses, superstructures on swap bodies or similar, triple-glazed windows are possible and more suitable.

Old, used windows sometimes have a much poorer insulation value if the panes are not yet metal-coated (can be tested by looking at the reflection, google for a guide) and filled with inert gases in the space between the panes.

Water installation

All water pipes must be frost-proof. This means that they must either be permanently heated or be completely drainable.

For supply lines, there are pipe heaters and pipe shells for insulation. Experience has shown that the waste water must also be insulated.

Furniture

Built-in furniture without rear ventilation is particularly tricky. If a packed closet is placed directly against an outside wall, for example, the temperature on the rear wall is very low in winter and condensation can occur.

Room planning

From experience: A foyer for dirty shoes and wet clothes is invaluable.

Washing machine and dryer

Washing machines and dryers emit extremely high amounts of moisture during operation. They should only be used in winter with an additional dehumidifier.

If there is the option to wash outside, that is always the better choice.

Self-sufficiency

Solar panels generate little electricity in winter. Even in a passive tiny house with a large battery storage, the yields in winter usually are not sufficient for heating. If no connection to the electricity grid is possible, gas, wood or pellets must be used.